Muirkirk
1846
MUIRKIRK, a parish, in the district of Kyle, county of Ayr, 10 miles (W. by
S.) from Douglas; containing, with the village of Glenbuck, 3125
inhabitants. The origin and history of this place are both involved in
obscurity and uncertainty; little more of it is known than that, previously
to the year 1626, it formed part of the parish of Mauchline, and as such was
included in the barony of the earls of Loudoun. An attempt has been made to
deduce the history of some transactions connected with the place, from the
existence of various stones in different parts; but they are neither
inscribed with any characters tending to explain the cause of their
erection, nor are they of sufficient magnitude to warrant the opinion of
their being monuments of commemoration.
The parish, which is
situated on the river Ayr, is about eight miles in length from east to west,
and seven miles broad from north to south; and comprises about 30,000 acres.
Not more than 5000 are in cultivation, and of these only 1000 are under
tillage; 250 are woodland and plantations; and the remainder is now in a
state of nature, though a very considerable portion might be rendered
fertile, and brought into cultivation, at a moderate expense. The surface is
very irregular; it is tolerably level near the banks of the rivers, but in
other parts rises abruptly into lofty eminences. The highest of these is the
hill of Cairntable, which has an elevation of 1650 feet above the level of
the sea, and is crowned by two large cairns; it is chiefly composed of
breccia, and for many years afforded a supply of millstones for the use of
the parish. The higher grounds are clothed with a kind of dark-coloured
heath that gives a cheerless aspect to the scenery, which is increased by
the want of timber. The river Ayr has its source in this parish, in a spot
where two artificial lakes have been formed by the Catrine Company, as
reservoirs for the supply of their cotton-works, and which cover about 120
acres of ground. From these the river issues, receiving in its course
through the parish numerous tributary streams from the hills, of which the
chief are the Garpel, Greenoch, and Whitehaugh; and thus augmented, it
pursues its course, for about thirty miles, and falls into the Frith of
Clyde at Ayr. There are springs affording an ample supply of excellent
water, and also some which have a petrifying property.
The soil is various, consisting of sand, gravel, loam, clay, and peat-moss,
which last is found in some parts twenty feet in depth: the crops are, grain
of all kinds, potatoes, and turnips. The rotation system of husbandry has
been generally adopted, and the state of agriculture is improved; hundreds
of acres, also, have been tile-drained; but much remains to be done, and the
abundance of lime and coal in the parish afford every facility of
improvement. The plantations are chiefly spruce, larch, and Scotch fir.
Surface-draining has been practised on some of the farms, with very
beneficial results, by the tenants at their own expense; it has been done,
however, only on a very limited scale. The farm-houses are substantial and
commodious, especially those of more recent erection; but very few of the
lands are inclosed, and those only with stone dykes. Several of the
dairy-farms are well managed; the cows are of the Cunninghame breed, and a
considerable number of young cattle of the same breed are annually reared,
to the improvement of which adequate attention is paid. The sheep, whereof
great numbers are fed, are the black-faced, which seem to be well adapted to
the quality of the pastures. The woods appear to have been almost destroyed,
though from old documents it is clear that this was a forest towards the
close of the 12th century; and from the numerous trees found imbedded in the
mosses, and from some detached portions of trees still found in various
parts, it is evident that the parish formerly abounded with timber. Wellwood,
the property of the Duke of Portland, is an ancient mansion beautifully
situated on the banks of the Ayr, and embosomed in thriving plantations. The
rateable annual value of the parish is £6179.
The substrata are chiefly coal, ironstone, and limestone. The coal formation
is part of the great coal-field of the country; the seam at present worked
is about twenty-five feet in thickness, though in other parts nearly forty
feet. The ironstone is found in belts about six inches thick; and the
limestone, which is of good quality, is extensively quarried. Iron-ore,
lead, and manganese have also been found; the two former were worked for
some time, but the working was not productive, and it was consequently
discontinued. The iron-works in this parish, which are very extensive, were
erected in 1787, and have since been carried on with great spirit by the
proprietors. The works consist of four blast-furnaces for the manufacture of
pig-iron, an extensive foundry, and a rolling-mill for bar-iron; two of the
furnaces are at present in use, and these afford employment to about 400
men, who are constantly engaged. The bar-iron is of excellent quality, and
superior to that of most other forges: until a very recent year it was
beaten into bars instead of being formed by rollers, as in other works.
There were formerly some iron-works established at Glenbuck by an English
company; but they were abandoned many years since. The village of Muirkirk
has greatly increased since the opening of the works in its neighbourhood;
it is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in the collieries and
limestone-quarries, and in the iron-works. Two circulating libraries,
containing large and well-assorted collections of volumes, are supported by
subscription. Fairs are held in February and December; but they are not well
attended. A branch bank has been established; and facility of intercourse
with Strathaven, the nearest market-town, and with other places in the
neighbourhood, is maintained by good roads which pass through the parish.
Muirkirk is in the
presbytery of Ayr and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and patronage of the
Marquess of Hastings: the minister's stipend is £157. 17. 3., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £20 per annum. The church, erected about the year
1813, is a neat and substantial edifice adapted for a congregation of 913
persons, and is conveniently situated nearly in the centre of the parish.
There are places of worship for Burghers, the United Secession, and
Independents.
The parochial school
affords instruction to about seventy children; the master has a salary of
£28 per annum, with £30 fees, and a house and garden. There are three
friendly societies, the Muirkirk, the St. Thomas's, and the St. Andrew's
masonic lodges, all established for many years, and which have contributed
very materially to diminish the number of applicants for parochial relief,
and to keep alive a spirit of independence among the poor. Some of the
springs in the parish are slightly impregnated with iron, sulphur, and other
minerals. According to tradition, there was anciently a religious
establishment on the summit of Cairntable; but of what order, or when or by
whom founded, nothing is recorded.
From: A
Topographical Dictionary of Scotland (1846)